Today was our first day of sightseeing in Berlin and had a lot of ground to cover.  We started off with Checkpoint Charlie – the main border control between East and West Berlin. Many stand-offs between the Ruskies and the British/American/Western forces occured here so we were expecting a fitting attraction.

What remains however is a large photo of a Russian soldier, a sign and a small wooden hut – complete with actors in various soldier costumes who could, if you so wished, stamp your passports for entry/exit into West Berlin. For a price, of course. Considering our last experience with Russians and border controls, these soldiers would have had to pry these passports from our cold, dead fingers.

Disappointed at this most blatant of tourist traps (including the >£10 small private museum) we moved onto stop two: Potsdammer Platz. This is now a thriving modern business/commercial district that had used to be no-man’s land between the East and West, and houses the attractive Sony Center. A short walk from this was meant to be the Führensbunker, where Hitler had lived out the last few days of the war. After much searching, we eventually found a sign that explained that the bunker had been effectively destroyed (by the Soviets) and was built over for flats and a car park.

Just beyond this was the striking Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, or The Holocaust Memorial. This is composed of 2711 concrete blocks that are all of differing sizes. This doesn’t sound particularly impressive but it is actually a very fitting memorial, something just feels right about it.  Each concrete block is coated with a special anti-graffiti lacquer which was entirely paid for by one of the companies who profited from the Nazis during WWII.

Beneath the monument is an underground museum that documents the passage of Jews from all over Europe who were murdered in various labour camps and ghettos.  Covering literally every country affected with raw statistics for every nation (ranging from three figures in some areas up to seven figures for Poland) as well as with touching personal stories. Some survived, most didn’t.  It made for bleak reading.  In the collection there was also the earliest surviving letter thrown from a train carriage which revealed that prisoners had started to realise that the ‘Final Soolution’ involved being gassed.

Afterwards we had some lunch nearby. A currywurst for me (a hot-dog with tomato sauce and curry power on it) plus a bratwurst for NS (your standard German sausage). Dunkin’ Donuts for pudding and we were off again in the direction of the Brandenburg Gate.

Although quite impressive as well as historically important… it it’s just a gate.  We therefore followed the road behind it – the green, tree-laden Unter Den Linden to eventually arrive east of our original position at Alexanderplatz (the central square of East Berlin).

On the way, we visited the Berlin Dom. Berlin’s cathedral was relatively recently (in church terms) restored, and it’s been a fantastic touch-up job.  Inside, it’s marvelously ornate fashion and, quite simply, huge. We went up the domed roof and after many steps were rewarded to a great panorama of Berlin before heading completely in the other direction to the crypt before continuing on our journey.

We completed the rest of the walk to Alexanderplatz and after being convinced to purchase some alcohol off the street by a bride-to-b as part of her hen party (these Germans, eh?) we decided one panorama was not enough. We queued forty minutes to go up the iconic TV Tower, and we weren’t disappointed by the view (at 206 or so meters up) but it was quite expensive at ten euros each.

The expense was regained by a dinner that was in a recommended burrito restaurant/canteen nearby. Although not totally sure what was being put in our burritos and quesadillas, it was very tasty for about five euros each, so we left full up and with a smile on our faces.

We got the U-Bahn back to Potsdammer Platz and joined the evening queue for the Reichstag – the German parliament building. Although it looked like one of the longest queues we’d seen this side of St. Petersburg, it only turned out to be about 45 minutes.  The entry was free, but was worth so much more.

A brief security search and a lift ride later, at 2130 we were at the base of the Lord Norman Foster (yes, the British architect!)-designed panoramic dome.  By now, we could see Berlin lit up in all its glory. Definitely the best panorama of the day, even though this was to be our third!

Furthermore we got a free audio guide that automatically triggered commentary as we went up the interior circular pathway of the dome. As we climbed above the roof terrace and looked out over the city we were given information on landmarks, the Reichstag itself and an overview as to how the German government operated with full openness and transparency. From all angles of the dome, you can see directly down into the plenary chamber through the central glass viewing area.

There was also a stack of mirrors for directing sunlight down into the plenary chamber from the dome and a sunshade that automatically moved with the sun to prevent glare into said chamber. This combined with many other energy-saving initiatives to make the Reichstag an incredible building and a very appropriate one for housing the government.

Three panoramas of the city done, we’d seen almost every angle of Berlin from a great height, and although the mythical bunker of Hitler and Checkpoint Charlie were little more than anti-climaxes, our day ended with the recommendation that visiting the Reichstag is a must.